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  1. Hi,
    I installed valve per instructions, and had to tighten bolts and packing nut as leaking was occurring when water went through. This stopped the leaking temporarily–within 2 hours it had begun leaking pretty well from the gasket. I have tightened everything as much as I dare and it is still leaking, do you have any suggestions. Would taking off the valve and re-installing do anything??
    Thank you
    Russ

    • Hello,
      You could take it apart and examine all of the components that might be responsible for a leak. It could be some bruised tubing, small debris that allows water leak, some small problem caused by the manufacturing process, etc. You might need to replace the entire saddle valve assembly. Hard to say without examining it carefully…

  2. When you attach the copper tubing to the saddle should you use plumber’s tape or something on the threads to help prevent leaks.

    • Hi Vern,
      You should not require any tape or putty on the threads of the compression fitting. Properly installed brass compression sleeve should provide sufficient water tight seal between the copper tubing and the valve. If you over or under tight it, the connection will most likely leak. You have to make sure that the tubing section inserted into the valve is clean, without any dents, and that it goes into the valves opening as straight as possible. The same applies to the brass sleeve – no dents, deformations, etc.

  3. A year ago I installed a saddle valve for my refrigerator’s water dispenser and ice maker. I installed it using the piercing pin into my 1/2 inch copper line. The water dispenser has always been slow to fill a glass of water, and sometimes the ice cubes are hollow. Recently the ice cubes got really thin, but I changed the refrigerator’s water filter and that helped a great deal. But the cubes are still sometimes hollow, and the dispenser is slow. I disconnected the copper line running from the saddle valve to the refrigerator to check the flow and it comes out like a little drinking fountain. Do you think it will help if I remove the saddle valve and drill out a 1/4 inch hole or maybe a 3/16 inch hole where the pin puncture is? If yes, any special precautions to take to keep it from leaking? I’ll use a cordless drill. Thanks for your help.

    • Hi Tom,
      A 1/4″ diameter hole should be sufficient. I wouldn’t go any further than that because it will weaken the pipe structure and the rubber gasket opening size will limit the water flow anyway. After removing the saddle valve for drilling, examine the gasket itself for any damaged that could cause it to leak after re-installation. If the area around the hole / piercing pin penetration looks bad, try to carefully remove deteriorated rubber with small scissors or the utility knife. If it looks like a lot needs to be removed, get a new gasket (if you can find one) or a new valve. When drilling, do it slowly, and try to collect all of the copper debris from the drilling area. Small pieces may flow towards the valves and damage their internal parts – gaskets, o rings, etc. After drilling, clean the area around the hole, fully extend the pin so it is easier to center the valve over the hole, and tighten both clamp bolts evenly. That should do it…

  4. I followed your instructions, there are no leaks at the pipe or valve that carries the water to the refrigerator, but no water enters the line. If I remove the refrigerator water line, and leave faucet on I get a steady stream of water from the hole where the line goes. Help!

    • Well, there aren’t that many possibilities. If there’s water running from the saddle valve after disconnecting the refrigerator line, check the line itself.
      Disconnect it from the refrigerator and try to blow some air into it. If you can feel the air coming out of the other side it means the refrigerator has something that prevents water flow.
      Look inside the connector on the refrigerator side, check the refrigerator manual for water line connections. Depending on your model there might be electronic lock on it or some manual device that prevents water from flowing.

      If you can’t blow the air through the tubing, it must be clogged.

      Since the valve is functional / you can control water flow, it’s either the tubing or the refrigerator.

      However, if I misunderstood your last sentence “If I remove the refrigerator water line, and leave faucet on I get a steady stream of water from the hole where the line goes” and by refrigerator water line you mean tubing and entire valve assembly, there might be something blocking the valve – take it apart and tap on it, blow some air into it / through the valve.

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