Reader Interactions


  1. You don’t seem to like any of these systems. We have well water and I am considering a spray system. Can’t I just install a prefilter to reduce mineral clogging?

    • Hi John,

      I know how much water most of them waste and how much damage they cause to HVAC equipment that even considering that a lot of it was simply lack of maintenance, there are only a couple I would recommend. NO – I’m not being paid by the manufacturers for that / I’m not their affiliate.

      All I can say is Try It. Make sure you can return it within 30 days if you don’t like it. Install one and monitor interior of the air duct to make sure that it doesn’t overspray / that there’s no residue from drying mist on the air duct interior walls. If you notice stains (assuming that you have a galvanized or aluminum air ducts) it will eventually cause corrosion of the air duct. Also, depending on the installation / placement of the nozzle, that un-vaporized completely mist often drips onto the heat exchanger causing more corrosion.

      Yes, the filter is a MUST with well water, plus, remember:

      FURNACE REQUIREMENTS: For use in homes with conventional gas or oil forced-air central heating systems only. Not for use with electric furnaces, 90+ condensing furnaces, or electric heat pumps. DO NOT INSTALL with an attic furnace of any type.
      WATER REQUIREMENTS: Operates on normal city water supply pressure. If any other type of water supply is to be used, it must be capable of providing a minimum pressure of 50 psi.
      If your water has a high calcium and mineral content, dust may be created as the water evaporates. The problem can be minimized by installing an in-line water filter that uses replaceable cartridges in the water supply line.

  2. We have two attic mounted electric Heat exchanger furnaces, and are in need of some type of humidifier, as my wife has asthsma and is on Oxygen 24/7, and needs moist air in winter. We live in Round Rock TX (Central TX). We have tried both types of stand alone, fill every day types, and would like to get away from the fill ruteen.

    • Hi Ron,
      Since you have an electric furnace I would only consider a whole house humidifier that mounts on an air supplying duct / not on the return. This would minimize amount of moisture that may compromise electric coils and prevent possibility of a spillage onto the electrical components of the furnace.

      Since your furnace(s) is mounted in the attic, you may consider a steam type humidifier by Honeywell. I don’t know if this would be possible in your configuration, but those whole house steam humidifiers can be mounted in some remote, more accessible than attic locations, and steam delivered to the air distributing ducts through the hose. This way you have more control over it.

      You have to remember that all humidifiers require maintenance, and will eventually stop functioning properly or at all without it.

      You can get more details about this particular type here – steam humidifier
      Also, they are more expensive than the conventional types (price will depend on the sq footage of your home / size of the unit), but at the same time claim to be more efficient. If you can’t do it yourself, call a few local HVAC companies for a quote.

      Let me know if you have any further questions.

      Thank you

  3. Still testing Desert Spring… furnace blower and humidifier running constantly “on” for 10 hours, 2% humidity increase

  4. Did you ever evaluate the Desert Spring Rotary humidifier? And if you did how did it do?

    • Almost perfect timing :-)… A month later than anticipated, I just finished installation today. I’ll try to do a installation manual over the weekend and post it by Monday. Humidifier installation itself very easy, it looks nice, and I should know about performance in a few days. So far, the humidity went up only 3% in about 5 hours, but it was warmer today and the furnace didn’t run that much.

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