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“Pump in the hole / house sump pump”, is just another component of our precious home and we tend to forget about. I know that for a fact because it’s a very popular item in the “servicing required” section of my inspection reports. Wake-up call from a broken basement sump pump might sometimes be very painful (wet and expensive), so bare with me for a few minutes.
How an entire drainage system around and inside your property is designed will go into another post, for now I’m assuming that you don’t care what’s under the ground. The most typical house sump pump setup is visible on the pictures and you can compare if what you see here is what you got at your place. A sump pump basin / well / pit might be located in various areas, sometimes it’s not even visible.
The most common sump pump locations are basements or crawlspace corners, but you’ll also find them in garages, exterior wells, under the carpeting in finished basements (sometimes pipes might be hidden completely), or elsewhere.
Sump Pump Well Cover - if the sump pump well is located in an exposed area, easily accessible, even in the dedicated closet, make sure that opening is well protected. This is extremely important when small children are occupying or visiting the premises – make sure that a sump pump cover is in place and installed in such a manner, that stepping on it will not displace it (secured with screws would be ideal but some of the setups don’t have room for screws).
This might be difficult when a back-up sump pump and an additional discharge pipe is added to the pit. The easiest way to solve this problem is using a two piece / cut in half cover, or installation of a “Y” shaped connector for both sump pump discharge pipes just below the cover (in such installation, you’ll have two sump pumps but only one discharge pipe penetrating the cover) – of course, only if the well is deep enough to accommodate such installation.
Just in case Radon gas is an issue in your house – sump pump well and cover penetrations must be sealed air tight!
Sump Pump Discharge – a PVC pipe is the cheapest, easiest one to service, assemble, replace, or whatever you wish to do with it. But … because a sump pump motor vibrates, glued PVC pipe connections tend to separate, so they should be well supported, secured, and monitored periodically. Older sump pump discharge assembly might be galvanized or copper pipe, eventually corroding, and sometimes leaking. Some people also use flexible hoses, which I personally don’t recommend.
It is perfect for the exterior of the house, where it lies fully supported on the ground, to extend the sum pump discharge pipe as far as possible from the foundation (don’t let it discharge next to you foundation). But inside the basement, sometimes suspended on a few straps from the ceiling or in vertical runs, a flexible pipe might easily separate at connections – every time the sump pump motor is activated, water pressure puts significant stress on such assemblies.
Also, flexible pipe wall is soft and easy to puncture, which isn’t that important on exterior, but in the basement might create a small disaster.
Sump Pump Discharge Pipe Check Valve - it’s a device installed on the discharge pipe, usually within a few feet above the sump pump cover. Sump pump check valves come in different “shapes” (elongated, usually thicker than a discharge pipe, made out of plastic, rubber, brass or combination – you can see a couple of them on the images, but always with the same purpose – to prevent water remaining in the discharge pipe from flowing back into the sump pump pit after being pumped out.
For sump pumps discharging to the house exterior, and having very short runs, such device doesn’t really change / help much. Small amounts of water backing up to the sump will be harmless; On the other hand, during the winter, water trapped inside the pipe (if you forget to disconnect extension on exterior) will freeze and crack the pipe.
This might sometimes happen inside or at the exterior wall penetration – remember to remove this extension or make it shorter and keep it above the ground for the cold season (sloped towards the sump pump if no check valve installed and towards the ground on exterior run with the check valve).
However, for sump pumps connected to the city sewer systems, this check valve is necessary to prevent sewer from backing up into the sump pit (some jurisdictions banned such connections to prevent rain / ground water from flooding city sewer systems, so check with your local authorities before you make such connections).
Inspect sum pump check valves occasionally for leaks, they usually occur on connections to discharge pipes, but sometimes the center section may also separate and start leaking.
One more thing:
if you are about to install a sump pump discharge pipe check valve or replace a defective device, make sure that it is installed the proper way – there should be an arrow on the body of the check valve, which reflects water flow and it should always point out / away from the pump. Disconnect the sump pump power supply cable before the procedure!
Tip – if the discharge pipe between the sump pump and house exterior wall has a horizontal section, try to position it with a little slope towards the house exterior, so even without the pump running, the pipe will empty itself to the exterior and prevent freezing during the cold season (with check valve installed).
The sump pump itself - make sure that it sits on a solid base. Older basins might be bottomless and filled with debris which could damage / block the pump rotor – clean the basin, set the sump pump on some bricks or concrete tile so it is picking up water only.
DISCONNECT THE SUMP PUMP POWER CORD BEFORE YOU PERFORM ANY SERVICING.
There are two basic sump pump types:
Pedestal Sump Pump with motor suspended above the water – this one should newer be submersed, it is usually activated by a switch mounted on the motor and connected to the floating material (Styrofoam, rubber / plastic ball) inside the basin, rising water pushes up the floating material and activates the switch.
Submersible Sump Pump which has to be under water for proper cooling, is activated by either a floating or pressure switch. A floating switch looks like a ball at the end of a short wire attached to the pump. A pressure switch is attached to the pump body bottom section.
Floating switch needs to float freely so make sure that it’s not suspended inside the basin or tangled with / blocked by the sump pump wires or pump itself.
If you’re planning a weekend project and need advice on sump pump sizing, this publication by University of Illinois Extension – College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences might be helpful.
If you have a floating switch, just lift it up and the sump pump should start – for pedestal pumps you can just lift the switch arm mounted on the motor, for submersible, use some kind of a wooden or plastic stick to lift the floating ball.
Don’t put your hands into the water!
Sump pumps are insulated and should not under any circumstances pass electricity into the water. However, it happened to me once … I was lucky because the basin was dry, and I touched the sump pump enclosure only. When the sump pump starts running, look into the well to make sure that it is actually pumping water out; there might be a faulty check valve, clogged discharge pipe on exterior, broken impeller, or other things that will prevent discharge.
If your sump pump is controlled by a pressure switch, you can try the first method, or unplug the electrical cord from the receptacle – if there’s a small tubing protruding from the plug, you can try to suck out the air from that tubing – it is connected to the pressure switch (wipe the surface, there might be some oily substance on it), seal it fast with your finger and plug it back in, the sump pump should start working and you can release your finger from the tubing.
Some of the sump pumps are designed with double electrical cord / plug - one supplies power to the sump pump and second to the floating switch. What you can do is to separate plugs, and plug in a single plug into the outlet (one without the receptacle). This will test the sump pump motor only, and not the switch – after testing, return the plugs to original configuration for the system to operate properly.
Most common sump pump problems / reasons for the sump pump to stop working or performing properly:
Don’t you ever connect your basement bathroom, kitchen or laundry drain to the sump pump well – ejector pump must handle it (assuming that you have an overhead drain)!
Well folks, that’s all for now! But wait! There’s more in back-up sump pump and patio sump pump posts – enjoy it.
Related posts:
jeff
4 weeks ago
The air filter for the air conditioner in my basement is wet. There’s water around the unit. My sump pump if full. Could the sump pump probem be causing the wet filter?
admin checkthishouse.com
3 weeks ago
Without knowing the setup / positioning of your appliance and the sump pump well it is difficult to answer your question. The AC filter doesn’t have much to do with the sump pump well, unless it has been installed in a close proximity, and it is absorbing water from the overflowing well. Otherwise, it sounds like you have a problem with a sump pump and the “A” coil drip pan is not draining properly causing water to drip onto the filter… email me some pictures, use “Virtual Help” tab at the top of my website
Johnnie
4 weeks ago
My sump pump is pushing the water up into my kitchen sink I had to unplug it now when it rains my basement floods, it come on but it’s sending the water the wrong way what could be causing that?
admin checkthishouse.com
4 weeks ago
I’d have to see your plumbing setup (email me some pictures if possible) to answer this question because there are a few possibilities. It appears that the sump pump discharges into the sewer pipe, maybe you also have a septic tank installed… If it is a septic, it might be filling up with water from the saturated soil (during and after heavy rain), and discharging even more water into it from your sump pump results in a backup int to the sink (the sink could be the closest to the septic). If you have the city sewer system, it may be also overflowing during the rain and cannot accept more water being pumped into it. There might also be some blockages inside your drain pipe that result in backup with larger amounts of water running through the pipes.
Some jurisdictions don’t allow sump pump discharges into the sewer system, but I’m not sure about yours – I would start from disconnecting the sump pump from the pipe it is currently discharging into (apparently it is your sewer system). Put an extension on the sump pump discharge pipe and run it as far as possible from the house so the water doesn’t flow back into the sump pump well under the foundation. Give me some more information describing your plumbing connections / waste system.
Belinda
4 months ago
I have a huge hole dug in my basement with a 5 gallon bucket at the bottom of it (in it’s own hole), with a sump pump in it. The pump died, and I replaced it. Now when the big hole fills up with water, the bucket starts to float tipping it over with the pump in it. I moved the pump into the bigger hole on a flat surface, but when the hole fills up, and the float activates the pump, the pump falls over and sometimes the pump stays on even when the water is gone. I’m afraid it will burn the motor up. How can I secure this pump in the hole so it doesn’t fall over, or how can I keep the 5 gallon bucket from floating when water is in hole? I end up under my house every time it rains. No fun! Thanks
admin checkthishouse.com
1 month ago
It sounds like you have a flexible discharge pipe connected to this sump pump. If this is the case, I’d recommend getting some PVC (the easiest, but copper, or galvanized will do too) pipe the same diameter as the sump pump outlet, threaded connector that you can glue to the end of pipe and screw it into the pump enclosure. I’m not sure about the surroundings, but in most cases, the pipe would run up to the ceiling level, have a 90 connector installed and then continue to exterior or wherever it discharges (you secure horizontal or / and vertical sections with brackets). The idea is to secure pump in place with the solid PVC pipe. Flexible pipes work fine on temporary sump pumps, but something that is there to stay, should have a more permanent installation.
If you insist on keeping flexible extension or for some reason, this particular pump hasn’t been designed for a hard wall pipes, you could make (drill) some holes at the lower portion of the bucket to prevent it from floating / allow water penetrate instead of filling it up over the edges.
Drill or punch a few holes above the bottom (don’t drill the bottom portion of the bucket) and observe how fast is the bucket filling up – it must be as fast than the water raising around it (make a few more holes if it is too slow). If the pump isn’t heavy enough, put a couple of bricks / stones inside the bucket / around the pump to hold it down and secure it in place – just make sure they are not blocking the pump switch.
pbfinley
1 year ago
I have a sump pump in the basement and the pump operates properly when there is a lot of water in it but stays on when the level is low. There appears to be some type of roots coming through the hole that feeds water into the pit. How do I stop these roots from coming in? I check around the pump, but didn’t find any obstructions, why won’t it turn off?
admin checkthishouse.com
1 year ago
Hello,
I’m sorry for a delay but it was one of those very few (recently) days filled with inspection.
I don’t know what type of a switch your sump pump has (floating or pressure), but besides being suspended / obstructed by something inside the well itself, there might be other issues preventing it from responding properly to the water level.
•Floating ball might be cracked and taking water keeping the switch in closed position
•Switch located inside the floating device is frozen in one position – if you have a plastic box / container hanging on a lose wire from the side of your pump, it should make a clicking noise when moving from low to high position
•Pressure switch membrane might be damaged preventing proper response
•For electrical plug (pump power supply) with a small plastic tube sticking out of it (pressure switch controlled pumps) – the tube might be damaged, kinked, sealed with some debris, which prevents pressure release from the switch…
For the roots inside well
If you have an open bottom type of a sump pump well, there is not much you can do except for cleaning it periodically. In some designs this is the only way the water gets into the well (no drain tile / pipes on the sidewalls).
If there are pipes on the well sidewall, you could replace this well with a new barrel that has a bottom, but active roots will eventually penetrate sidewall openings. If they are inside the well, there’s also a chance that they contaminated drain tile – in some cases the system might require rebuilding
Let me know if this helped to solve the problem.
Bob
1 year ago
We’ve just replaced our 20 year-old basement pedestral sump pump with a new similar model – because the water was not clearing out. But after installation the problem persisted – the water still does not clear out. After reading your article I realised the problem was not the pump but perhaps within the piping.
It seems water is being pumped all the way to the check valve (installed 6ft above), but not passed.I verified the check valve and at first I couldn’t push up the interior flap as there was a downward-perssure force. Once pushed through, air blew out and the flap was back to it normal loose state. (the situation repeats itself if I connect everything back and turn on the pump)
I checked the pipe for clogging as best as I could, but wonder if the problem lies in a frozen discharge or air-lock?
Four things to note: In all these years, I’ve never had a relief hole on my ABS pipe (going from the pump to the check valve). I am unsure where the discharge is located, but the pipe (metal) seems to head out at grade-level towards our septic tank. Our septic tank has had some problems recently. And finally, we are in mid-winter, under 3 feet of snow.
Thanks for any input on this…
admin checkthishouse.com
1 year ago
Hello Bob, since the check valve locks itself after you put everything together and start the pump, it might be because of the frozen or blocked pipe section on exterior. As soon as you turn the sump pump on, water fills up that blocked pipe and creates pressure that locks the valve as soon as the sump pump stops operating. Besides freezing, the exterior section of pipe might be heavily corroded (especially if galvanized and partially buried under ground) to the point that blocks water flow. If the exposed, exterior section has no union you can take apart, I would get a pipe rubber connector with metal clamps (unfortunately they will corrode over time), and cut the pipe on exterior. Disconnect sump pump power supply, disassemble section below the check valve and open the valve, cut metal discharge pipe on exterior approximately 12″ from the house wall penetration. After you put everything together, turn the pump ON to see if it’s discharging properly through the cut section. If it is, your problem is wherever this pipe continues its run. It definitely shouldn’t go to the septic tank or not even near it if possible – too much water can cause it to malfunction. If everything works fine after cutting the pipe, just use that rubber clamp to attach short extension for now (try to keep it above the ground and sloped down). When it gets warmer, run a longer extension away from the house. The relief hole below the well cover won’t hurt, and sometimes it does help. You can drill it when the pipe is disassembled / pulled out from the well. Drill it at the slight angle pointing down towards the well bottom. Let me know if that helped
admin checkthishouse.com
1 year ago
Hi Robert, I’m not sure, which picture / setup you’re talking about
. Your sump pump has either floating or pressure activating switch, and since it’s running constantly, the switch might be broken (both types) or suspended in the “on” position (floating type). For the floating switch, try to tap it with a wooden / plastic stick (keep your hands off the water if the pump is plugged in!), or try to push it down / under water to see if this shuts off the pump. For the pressure switch, you could try to empty the sump pump pit so the water level is below the pump bottom (disconnect the sump pump power supply when you do that), and plug it back in. If it still runs, you activating switch most likely failed. You might be able to get a replacement from the manufacturer… but it will take time.
ROBERT MCGILLOWEY checkthishouse.com
1 year ago
I have the same type install has stated in this website and pictural. The problem is the pump will not shut off and continues to pump at a steady amount, very little . Before the pump would cycle every 5 minutes or so and pump then shut off when water was below level. Then when water came in it would cycle and pump again. I did un plug both plugs and left them unplugged until level alarm went off. Before when I did this the pump seemed to re-set the pump sequence as stated above. I looked in sump pump bucket where pump is and can’t see any problems. Could you suggest doing something to remedy the situation? Please advise asap. Thanks! Robert S. McGillowey———–e-mail mcgillowey@aol.com————781-752-6998 cell
admin checkthishouse.com
1 year ago
Just follow this link – Patio Sump Pump. I might be able to give you a little more precise answer if you send me some pictures of the sump pump pit and your patio.
doug
1 year ago
We have pit in our back contrete patio to protect against run off from our backyard. I’m concerned about the water in there freezing and cracking the patio. Is it okay to put salt in the pit to make it less likely the water will freeze? Is there a better way? Will the salt damage the pump?
admin checkthishouse.com
1 year ago
Hi Nancy, don’t put anything into the sump pump pit, it’s just a waste of money – the pump will discharge everything onto your backyard anyway, and you’ll contaminate soil with chemicals. If you have a check valve installed above the sump pump, position the horizontal section of the discharge pipe so it slopes towards the exterior – it will drain remaining water onto the ground (otherwise it stays in the pipe and freezes). Without the check valve it doesn’t matter, after the sump pump stops operating, remaining water will either drain through the sump pump or to the exterior. The important thing is the height of the sump pump discharge pipe at the exterior wall penetration – if it is at the ground level, it will be hard to keep the ice out of it, above the snow line would be perfect but sometimes not possible (that exterior piece you’ve left should be hanging above the ground and above the snow line if possible). Some people connect sump pumps to the sewer lines (for the cold season), but (at least in Illinois) many jurisdictions forbid such installation to prevent those systems from flooding. Connecting the sump pump to your septic tank is also a very bad idea.
nancy
1 year ago
very good article! My ? is, I have PVC discharge pipe which extends out from back of house to the side, which i connected a flexi hose to. now that it is winter, i cut/shorten the flexi hose, however my sump pump stopped because water in hose was frozen, not sure if water in pvc froze also. i cannot bury the pvc pipe, but i plan on burying the flexi hose in spring. any suggestions how i can prevent maybe water freezing in pvc pipe? someone said you could put windshield fluid in sump pit water to prevent, would this help? also would this damage my pump? any advise would be greatly appreicated..thanks!!..i dunno wut to do