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All bathroom outlets must be 20 amps rated and must include GFCI protection (there might be one GFCI receptacle and other outlets connected to it and protected). Your new condo bathroom receptacles must be installed on #12 AWG wire which you can’t see without removing of the receptacle or at least its cover, but this is beyond our basic / visual inspection.
The best way to test bathroom GFCI is to purchase a GFCI receptacle tester (you can get one for under $10.00 in any local Home Depot®/Menards® or Lowes®, smaller hardware stores might be more expensive – just make sure that it has a GFCI test option) and test all of the apartment receptacles for proper wiring and functionality. The minimum you can do is to use a cord & plug lamp for testing – make sure that the light goes OFF and stays OFF after you push and release GFCI’s “trip” button – learn extremely important GFCI maintenance.
Make sure that there’s an electrical outlet receptacle within 36” of each sink exterior edge. Bathroom electrical outlet may be installed on the mirror, wall surface, or sink cabinet face /side wall within 12” from the countertop.
If your new condo has a whirlpool tub, its motor must be accessible and plugged into a GFCI receptacle or GFCI breaker protected outlet. Pull the motor plug from the receptacle, and plug in your testing device / push the test button, or push GFCI breaker test button (in electrical panel) to make sure it trips and disconnects the power to the motor. Make sure that electrical box is secured, receptacle attached to it, and has a cover plate installed.
Motor access must be large enough for servicing if required, and for en emergency disconnect – so you can reach and pull the plug from an electrical outlet socket. Check if the motor is within reach and removing it would be possible without destroying surrounding walls.
Most of the hydro-spa motors (unless listed on label as double insulated) have a grounding screw / terminal. There must be a #8 solid AWG copper wire bonding (connecting) this terminal with a water pipe (special clamp must be installed on water pipe) – very important and rarely installed. In some cases the terminal is on the opposite side of the access panel, you’d need a good source of light and a telescopic mirror (just a few $$$ in most hardware and car supply stores) to see it.
If you have a manufactured type shower base (fiberglass, plastic, concrete, Corian, etc), check its surface for cracks, scratches, dents, stains. Cracks usually appear in corners or around the drain hole, might be caused by improper handling, installation or even manufacturing process. Other 99.9% issues are caused by the base installer or whoever performs other jobs around the base.
Open the valves, check for proper operation (same as whirlpool section), if possible, direct shower-head onto the enclosure seams (run it 10-15 minutes) to make sure that none of them are leaking
Recessed light fixtures within 3’ from the tub or shower stall edge and 8’ vertically from the edge must be rated for wet / damp locations (usually require enclosed trim preventing moisture penetration)
Lights – if you have a light strip above the mirror with an open top, check if electrical wiring is properly contained within an electrical junction box or fixture itself – you should not be able to see exposed wires and connections
Any bathroom exhaust fan installed directly above the shower stall or bathtub must be listed for such locations and GFCI protected (manufacturer requirement) – turn the fan on and push GFCI receptacle test button, this must stop the fan.
Check all tiled walls for missing or cracked grout – look at grout lines from different angles to make sure that they are all completely filled with grout and free of cracks. There might be an inadequate mortar base, sometimes loose underlayment that permits movement and results in grout cracking.
Tiled wall and floor corners, tile seams with tub and shower stall base, shower enclosure to wall seams, sink countertop to wall seam – they should be all sealed with silicon to prevent moisture / water penetration. 99.9% of them will eventually crack / open, and without flexible sealer on top of the seam, they will start leaking. Your neighbor from the floor below is usually the first one to let you know about it.
Window sill (if window located within the shower stall / tub area) should be sloped towards the interior / not the window frame. Assuming that it is tiled, all seams with the window frame must be sealed with silicon.
Sealer application on tiled / grouted surfaces – I don’t think that there’s such requirement / regulation (except for the grout and some tiles manufacturers recommendations), so you can’t really request it from the developer. However, I highly recommend it – it saves maintenance time, slows grout deterioration, prevents grout, unglazed tiles and stone surfaces from absorbing water. Application is very easy and clearly explained on any sealer bottle – just make sure that the surface you’re applying it over is clean and fully dry.
Bathroom windows located within 60” from the shower stall or tub standing surface MUST be tempered type glass – check the corners of a window pane for etching confirming that it is tempered. This is a very common problem, and for a very simple reason – tempered window glass is more expensive – if it’s not there, it must be replaced.
Check your new condo bathroom tub for dents, scratches, marks, discoloration (all types of tubs), and cracks especially along the edges supported with tiled surface (fiberglass and plastic). While first 4 are usually related to a sloppy drywall / tile installers, painters and sometimes a plumber, cracks along the edge are usually a sign of an improper base / inadequate support under the tub, and poorly designed framing.
The tub should be fully supported from underneath, not rest on the thin edge which becomes critical while filled with water. You should be able to see hydro-spa tub support after removing the motor access panel.
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