Fitting New Condo Safety Issues and defects into the Top 10 list is going to be a little tight, but you can find out about many other bad things from the Chicago condos by checking entire Chicago Condo Inspection Manual.

You would think that after such a spectacular real estate meltdown, something would change in the Chicago construction business. I’m talking of course about some kind of an improvement, a positive reaction from the Chicago building department inspectors who have magically disappeared for several years now.

With less construction going on, they now have a chance to re-emerge again; they can do some good by checking the major safety issues in those new condos and help buyers walk into much safer homes … make-up for what they didn’t do in the last few years.

Unfortunately, nothing good is happening. The Chicago building inspectors must be somewhere else because I’m seeing the same serious problems on brand new construction sites.

It’s depressing and it doesn’t look like any help is coming our way, unless they are planning some undercover action against all those properties.

My Top Ten List of the Chicago New Condo Safety Issues / Life Threatening Conditions!

Non-functional self-closing feature on condo entrance doors from the building staircases and missing weather stripping – those doors must automatically and fully close and must not have gaps along all 4 edges to prevent fire and smoke penetration. Fire feeds on oxygen and fresh air leaking from withing your unit will cause it to spread out further, and smoke to contaminate your living quarters.

Gas furnace and / or water heater closet combustion air requirement – all fuel burning appliances require oxygen to support complete and clean combustion. Unless the appliances are designed to use exterior air only, there must be air-supplying ports installed within the closet.

In many condominiums, there is either no combustion air vents provided, installed vents are too small, or they’re improperly located. All of these items could cause Carbon Monoxide to develop and contaminate the residence.

Furnace and water heater vent pipes are loose, unsupported, or not secured with screws / or glued (only for PVC pipes) at joints. With limited storage space in condos, occupants often use the furnace / water heater closet to store … well, everything.

With loose, unsupported vent pipes, it’s easy to displace them without even noticing it. When that happens, exhaust gases will be discharging into your apartment instead of the chimney.

Condo firewall penetrations – I can assure you that nobody cares about it. Not a developer, heating contractor, plumber, drywall installer, and certainly not a Chicago building inspector. It’s a celebration when I see a condo with properly (or at all) sealed fire wall penetrations.

In case of a fire, all those openings create an escape route for smoke, and might allow flames to spread out / consume framing of the structure

Improper type / shape of a connector used between the natural draft water heater and an induced draft furnace vent pipes. Pipes must be joined together with a “Y” shaped connector instead of a “T” type to prevent the possibility of the furnace exhaust gases being pushed back into the water heater vent pipe.

Ungrounded Jacuzzi / hydro-spa pump motors – unless the motor is double insulated (rarely), it has a ground terminal attached to its metal body. This terminal must be bonded with a water pipe using #8 solid copper wire and a special clamp, which is almost NEVER done. In some cases, correcting this problem after the tub has been installed, and access to water pipes blocked with tiles, might be quite expensive

Improperly wired GFCI outlet receptacles (bathrooms, kitchens, laundry if required, exterior, and/or garages) – if the contractor uses newer devices, they simply won’t work unless correctly wired. However, older GFCI receptacles (some electricians must keep a load of them, because they still use it) have a defect and even if tripped, the power remains ON. Make sure that you test all your GFCI outlet receptacles on regular basis – GFCI testing

Missing tempered type glass in bathroom windows located within 60” from the shower stall or tub standing surface – there must an etched label in one of the corners of the window pane confirming that it is tempered. Some custom made windows might not have this etching or label attached, and in such case you should contact the manufacturer

Missing furnace bottom closing plate – new furnaces are often delivered with an open bottom for the connection of a return duct. Whenever this isn’t used (air return connected to the side of the furnace), there must be a special metal plate installed over the opening to prevent bi-products of combustion from being sucked into the circulating air

The wiring of high voltage lighting under the kitchen cabinets installed inside the wall cavities without conduit protection

If anyone you know has recently purchased a new or newer (within the last few years) condo in Chicago, share this Top Ten List of the Chicago New Condo Safety Issues with them.

For more details on each of the items above, many other new condo issues, and how you can inspect most of your condo by yourself / without any tools or special knowledge, check the Chicago New Condo Inspection Manual.

It won’t cost you a penny and might save your life, or at least some money that you have already invested in that not so perfect home. Go ahead, start investigating and let me know about your new condo safety issues.

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To start your Chicago new condo water heater inspection you have to determine what type of a water heater you actually have.

Below are 4 most common types of water heaters installed in Chicago new condos:

1. Natural draft, tank type water heater with a metal vent pipe (galvanized steel – no aluminum)
2. Power vent / induced draft tank type water heater with a PVC vent pipe
3. Electric type water heater
4. Tankless type gas water heaters – depending on manufacturer and design it might be plastic or metal vent pipe

Water supply line for your Chicago condo water heater – it must have a shutoff valve so in case your water heater or any hot water line starts leaking, you can  turn it OFF.

Main water shutoff (to turn off water for the entire apartment)  is usually installed close to the water heater valve. If you can’t see it, ask for it because it might become handy in some situations.

Water heater hot and cold water supply lines in your new condo will be most likely made out of copper (no flexible connectors permitted in Chicago). Because water inlet and outlet of the water heater are galvanized steel, there must be some kind of a separator installed between copper and galvanized – in most cases dielectric union connector (pipe union connector with a plastic insert). Without it, the pipes will eventually corrode and start leaking.

• Check union connections for leaks

• Water heater temperature settings – this is of course totally your choice, but most experts recommend staying below 125°F (48,88°C) – even that temperature could cause second or third degree burns if the child continuously exposes skin to water at that temperature.

1. Chicago inspection of a natural draft, tank type water heater with a metal vent pipe

Check if the water heater metal vent pipe is the same diameter as the draft hood collar diameter (at connection). Some draft hoods are designed for 3″ and 4″, but if it is only 3″ diameter, and 4″ pipe installed – vent pipe requires reducing coupling. If the draft hood has a 4″ diameter connection – do not reduce it to 3″ because it will compromise proper venting.

Water heater vent pipe should never be downsized along its run!!! If your water heater draft hood was designed for a 4″ vent pipe, it cannot be downsized along its entire run.

• Every single wall vent pipe connection must be secured with 3 sheet metal screws / no tape of any kind. It’s not because the tape doesn’t seal the connection, it’s because you can’t see through the tape. This sometimes prevents early discovery of a corroding pipe, holes, leaking condensation – they are all signs of a draft problem, which should be spotted as soon as possible and corrected by a professional.

Double wall water heater vent pipes use twist and lock design / no screws on connections.

If your water heater has a single wall vent pipe, it must change to double before wall or ceiling penetration

• Minimum 6” clearance to combustible materials is required for a single wall pipe, never inside the wall or ceiling

Natural draft water heater vent pipe and an induced draft motor equipped furnace vent pipe must be connected together and to the chimney flue with a WYE shaped connector

“T” shaped connector installation poses safety hazard, because furnace induced draft motor could push exhaust gases back into the water heater vent pipe and contaminate your condo.

2. Chicago inspection of a tank type water heater equipped with a power vent / induced draft motor and a PVC vent pipe

All water heater PVC pipe connections must be glued / air tight (with PVC pipe cement / not silicon), secured at power vent with metal clamp on rubber connector (unless differently specified by the manufacturer)

• PVC vent pipe size (2″, 3″ or 4″) – you have to check that in water heater manual, it will depend on the water heater size (how many gallons), BTU input, and vent distance from the water heater connection to the exterior wall termination
• There are louder and quiet water heater power vents but all should be tolerable – if the noise is annoying, there’s usually something wrong with it

Tank type water heater drip pan

Water heater drip pan is required where leakage could cause damage (basically every floor above the basement installation)

• Water heater drip pan must be plumbed to the floor drain or other approved location – check if drain pipe connection to the pan is tight and sealed to prevent leakage

• Any water heater installed in a cabinet, under the counter must have a drip pan

Water heater TPR valve  (Temperature Pressure Relief valve)

There must be a safety discharge pipe attached to the TPR valve, same size as the valve discharge end (usually ¾”)

• TPR valve discharge pipe must never be downsized or run uphill

There must be no threads at the pipe discharge end

• Water heater safety valve pipe must be made out of copper, galvanized steel or CPVC (no PVC pipe permitted – temperature rating too low) – there’s usually marking along the pipe wall

TPR valve discharge pipe must terminate within 6” from the floor surface or continue into the floor drain

• No white Teflon tape is permitted on water heater gas pipe connections – small pieces of tape can get shredded during assembly, break off, and flow downstream to block a gas valve. There is a special yellow Teflon tape and compounds / paste available for gas pipe joints.

No flexible gas appliance connectors for water heaters are permitted in Chicago (and Illinois). Peoples Gas allows CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) as a final connector for permanently installed appliances, such as water heater or furnace but I’ve seen only a few in many years.

Water heater gas supply line must have an emergency shutoff valve and so called drip leg
installed to collect moisture from gas lines before it contaminates water heater gas valve (where you adjust temperature)

Extremely important and already covered in a different part of this Chicago condo inspection manual. Don’t miss it – just follow the link to “Water heater combustion air“.

3. Chicago condo electric water heater inspection (tank type)

Water heater Drip pan, TPR valve and discharge pipe requirements are the same.

Electrical conduit should be secured to the water heater with a connector and all wiring concealed inside the water heater connection box / other side of the conduit is usually attached to an electric junction box. There should be no loose conduit, exposed wiring, loose connection box / junction box covers.

• Check electrical panel for a breaker marked “WH” or “water heater – it will look like two single breakers with handles connected together (for 220volts)

4. Chicago condo tankless water heater inspection

If you have a tankless water heater installed in your condo, you will need a manual included with this appliance. There are too many variables involved / different requirements from different manufacturers.

Let me know if you can’t find a manual,  maybe I’ll be able to find it for you, and don’t forget to check other posts from my:

Chicago Condo Inspection Manual

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This chapter of the Chicago new condo inspection covers most common furnace installation issues (based on my inspections).

Furnace air return port must be located at least 10’ from the combustion chamber(s) (where the burners are) of gas burning appliances or in a separate room. The exception from this requirement is when the furnace and other appliances (within that room and 10′) are using combustion air from the outside.

10′ distance or return air port located in other room is to prevent bi-products of combustion process from being sucked into the air circulation system and contaminating the apartment.

This next item is an extremely common and dangerous issue and in some way another variation of the first one. The furnaces are often manufactured and delivered for the installation without the bottom plate (under the blower). This feature allows to connect air return duct to the bottom of your furnace.

However, whenever this bottom connection is not used (air return duct connected to the furnace side wall), there must be a special metal plate installed over the opening to prevent bi-products of combustion and dust, lint from being sucked into the circulating air.

• Before you remove the furnace bottom cover to check for that closure plate, turn the appliance OFF – there must be a ON-OFF service switch mounted on the furnace enclosure or within the furnace closet – this is also a requirement.

Look for a small push-button type switch along one of the edges of the blower compartment opening – this is a safety cut-off switch which disconnects the power to the furnace as soon as the blower compartment cover is removed.

The reason I asked you to use furnace service switch first is that installers tend to tape or by-pass this safety device when testing the new furnace during installation, and than forget to put it back in service.

If your condo has a single air return port (all rooms have only air supply registers), make sure that the bedroom and bathroom doors have at least ¾” of a clearance between the bottom edge and floor surface / threshold

New condo high efficiency furnace with PVC vent pipe – most common issues

Look where the PVC vent pipe connects with the furnace induced draft motor enclosure discharge which is usually at the furnace enclosure wall penetration. Most of the high efficiency furnace manufacturers recommend this joint to be sealed with high temperature RTV type sealant (not a regular silicon). The are two benefits from such connection;

1. provides required air tight seam which is resistant to acidic condensate from the high efficiency furnace exhaust gases
2. allows for easy separation for servicing purposes

Unfortunately, I rarely see an installation done correctly. It’s either loose / not sealed with anything (try to pull the PVC pipe from the joint), or it’s been bonded with PVC type solvent cement and already leaking condensate around the seam. Problem with the PVC type solvent cement is that it doesn’t bond properly to the other piece of plastic which is not a PVC type, and responds differently to exhaust gases temperature. Cement might hold for some time, but the joint will eventually crack and start leaking (look for stains around the seam).

Some manufacturers / designs require use of a rubber sleeve and metal clamps on this first furnace PVC vent pipe connection – make sure that clamps are tight – you should not be able to pull it apart (don’t force it). If it is loose, all you need to do is tight the clamp with a screwdriver.

Run furnace for 30 minutes and check connections on PVC pipe for any leaks / condensation buildup – they must be air tight and replaced if leaking (silicon repairs are not acceptable). You should check PVC vent pipe joints periodically for leaks.

• Furnace PVC vent pipe must be always sloped towards the furnace at ¼” per foot (minimum) to drain condensation through the furnace internal tubing system. If your furnace high efficiency vent pipe slopes down towards the exterior wall, there’s a possibility of ice buildup during the cold season which could block the exhaust pipe and shut down the furnace.

Turn OFF the furnace, remove service panels (might be single or two) and check for any moisture, corrosion stains inside the enclosure. High efficiency / condensing furnaces produce acidic condensate during the combustion process which sometimes deteriorates seals, starts dripping onto the furnace components and accelerates corrosion.

If you spot any moisture stains inside the furnace enclosure, whatever is causing it must be serviced to prevent more and sometimes permanent damage to the furnace components.

New condo regular furnace / metal vent pipe most common issues

• Condo furnace vent pipe must always run upwards at a minimum of ¼” raise per foot

All furnace metal vent pipe connections (single wall pipe) must be secured with screws (there should be 3 per connection), no duct tape (any kind) on vent pipe joints

• Condo furnace metal vent pipe must be the same size as the induced draft motor discharge end. If larger size pipe is used, such connection requires reducing coupling – look at the connection from underneath.

If there are small gaps between the furnace vent pipe and an induced draft motor collar, it might be just missing a high temperature rubber gasket. Connection on the picture has an orange-red colored gasket but it requires reducing coupling between 3″ collar and 4″ diameter vent pipe.

• Furnace double wall vent pipe connections have a twist and lock design and should not be secured with screws

• Wherever the furnace vent pipe penetrates closet / utility room side wall or ceiling surface it must change to double wall before penetration, minimum 6” clearance to combustible materials for a single wall pipe / never inside the wall or ceiling

• Your furnace vent pipe must be adequately supported along its entire length

Vent pipe connection between the furnace equipped with an induced draft motor and a tank type water heater must be WYE shaped / not a T type connection. This is required to prevent furnace exhaust gases from being pushed back into the the water heater vent pipe.

Furnace gas connection – no flexible appliance type gas connectors are permitted in Chicago (and Illinois). Peoples Gas allows CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) as a final connector for permanently installed appliances, such as water heater or furnace but I’ve seen only a few.

Gas supply line must have a so called drip leg installed to collect moisture from gas lines before it contaminates furnace gas valve

• No white Teflon tape is permitted on appliances gas pipes connections. There is a special yellow tinted Teflon tape designed for the gas pipe joints or several different types of sealants (paste like).

Some other issues to look for on you new Chicago condo furnace

Furnace air filter, filter compartment and blower compartment

• Make sure that you can pull the filter out and install it without disassembling half of the furnace or destroying the filter in the process.

• Blower compartment and furnace should be clean. They are often heavily contaminated after the construction and even changing several filters won’t prevent your new furniture from getting a white coat of plaster powder.

For furnaces installed on upper floors and / or in closets above the ceiling in your condo, there should be a drip pan under the air conditioning coil section (where two AC copper pipes penetrate furnace enclosure wall).

It must be plumbed to its termination point where it can be safely discharged. In such installations you should be able to see two drain pipes, one attached to the furnace enclosure (coil section) and second to the drip pan.

• Furnace humidifiers – a few different types so check my whole house humidifier post and let me know what you have so I can give you more details. If possible, ask the developer or his representative to explain how to operate and maintain your particular type of the whole house furnace humidifier.

Some of them are very cheap and will give you very little or no benefit at all. Other waste gallons of water per day of operation.

Those were the most common problems I see during my Chicago condo furnace installation inspections.

There’s much more stuff to inspect in your condo -

Chicago Condo Inspection Manual

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Even if you know very little about Chicago history, I’m sure you have heard of the Great Chicago Fire that started on October 8, 1871 … maybe you didn’t remember the date …

This chapter of your Chicago new condo inspection covers firewall separation between the condominium units, and it will tell us if we actually learned anything from the Chicago history.

Actually, I have the answer for you right now, before we even start the inspection – it’s a NO, we didn’t learn anything.

99.9% of my Chicago condo inspections are the best proof that the homeowners are putting their safety in hands of completely irresponsible developers, contractors and Chicago building inspectors.

I’m also 100% sure that the majority of other Chicago condos I didn’t have a chance to inspect (maybe with the exception of the hi-rise condos) are in the same condition.

Do you know that I can actually write the inspection report on condo firewall separation (and many other things) before I even start the inspection.

The funny thing is that whoever is not doing it wright, comes up with great ideas on how to make it worst.

So, let’s start this short inspection manual by answering one question:

• Q: How do you prevent fire and/or smoke from traveling between your neighbor’s condominium and yours?

• A: By providing air tight / fire resistant joints around all wall, floor and ceiling penetrations between the condominium units, especially in plumbing walls and utility rooms / closets containing fuel burning appliances.

Condo kitchen and bathroom firewall

Look under the sink and check area where plumbing pipes penetrate the wall or floor. This wall behind the sink / toilet / tub / shower stall often continues through the entire building (from the lowest to the highest level) and contains all the plumbing pipes, sometimes ventilation ducts, cables, etc.

In some building layouts, the kitchen drain and water supply pipes travels withing the apartment walls / floor to wherever this plumbing wall is located.

All the penetrations inside the wall at each floor / ceiling level and at the wall surface (example – where your sink drain pipe penetrates the wall) should be sealed to prevent spreading of fire, smoke and migration of all kinds of insects and rodents.

In other cases, there might be an open shaft / chase that runs through the floors and seals are applied only at the side wall, where something from the shaft penetrates your condo wall.

However, after seeing so many things done wrong on the “surface” of condos I’ve inspected, I have no reason to believe that under the surface looks better.

All gaps around the pipes should be sealed for your own safety, even if somebody will try to convince you that it’s not necessary.

Condo firewall in utility room / closet containing fuel burning appliances

Look at all floor, ceiling and wall areas where plumbing pipes, furnace air ducts, water heater and furnace vent pipes, dryer vents, air conditioning pipes, electrical conduit, cables, and anything else penetrates the surface.

This is where contractors imagination shifts into the overdrive. The best example (from my experience it appears to be a very popular trend) is using highly flammable expending foam (window and insulating type) as a fire / smoke blocking material around the penetrations.

You can easily spot it if left exposed because of its yellowish / ivory color.

High temperature, fire rated expending foams are color coded for easy recognition, the most common are orange, pink, and gray. However, different specification might prevent some of the products from being permitted in particular location.

If you notice something like that applied around the penetrations, ask the contractor / developer for the product brand name, check online if approved for fireproofing purposes, and confirm with the Chicago building department.

• The reasons for using regular expending foam instead of the fire rated products is the price (approximately 4X more), and irresponsibility… or simply just not knowing what to do.

Another product which is not being used around penetrations is fire rated caulking (most common color red or red-brown, 2-4 times more expensive than regular caulking). Because structures move constantly, different materials contract/expand at different rates, using fire rated caulking prevents the gaps from appearing around those penetrations.

The bottom line for the Chicago condo firewall separation:

Penetration in any surface of the condo wall, floor or ceiling that separate your property from the common areas (hallway, staircase, etc.), wall cavities or other apartments and roof framing (for top floor units) must be sealed with approved by the local code fire-rated materials.

So go ahead, look for holes, and continue your

Chicago new condo inspection

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This part will cover Chicago condo inspection combustion air requirements for the gas furnace and water heater installed inside your condo closet / utility room (not in the building common areas) – this is an extremely important section and you may need measuring tape.

All gas burning appliances require oxygen for a proper, complete and safe combustion process / without creating measurable and dangerous amounts of  Carbon Monoxide.

Because Carbon Monoxide has no taste, smell or color you must have a CO detector installed in your condo to alert you about any unsafe levels (check Chicago smoke and Carbon Monoxide detector requirements).

First we’re going to check if gas furnace and / or gas water heater installed in your condo require combustion air from within your apartment. In case you have two or three appliances installed in one room / closet, and only one of them requires combustion air, the minimum rules (or whatever the actual appliance requirements are) would have to be applied to this area anyway.

High efficiency gas furnace combustion air

High efficiency / condensing furnaces use either single or double PVC pipe (2″ and larger).

1. If you have only one PVC pipe coming out of your furnace enclosure and penetrating room wall or ceiling, it is used for ventilation purposes only and this furnace requires air from within your apartment for combustion.
2. If you have 2 PVC pipes coming out of your furnace enclosure and both of them continue through the furnace closet wall or ceiling, this furnace uses outside fresh air for combustion. The area where this appliance is installed (if single or all appliances the same type / using air from exterior) does not require any additional combustion air supplying ports.

This type of an appliance can be installed in your closet behind the air tight doors – just look-up the installation manual for minimum distances from surrounding walls and doors.

There might be also 2 pipes coming out of the furnace enclosure but one terminating inside the furnace closet / room (usually very short), and second continuing to building exterior – this appliance is like #1 / single pipe.

Regular efficiency furnace using metal vent pipe / regular chimney

The same combination as with PVC pipes but two metal pipes system (one for venting and one for combustion air) are very rare and I don’t think you’re going to find such furnace in your new Chicago condo (as a brand new installation of course /regular efficiency and sealed combustion chamber furnaces were common a little while ago).

If by any chance your condo has a brand new furnace with 2 metal pipes or exhaust metal and PVC air supply – this doesn’t require combustion air from interior.

Most common installation of a 80+ efficiency furnace:

• Furnace with a single metal (vent) pipe – it requires combustion air supply from within the condo

Gas water heaters combustion air

There are two types of water heaters commonly installed in Chicago condo units:

1. Conventional tank water heaters with natural draft (metal vent pipe) and induced draft / power vent (PVC pipe). 100% of the installed tank gas water heaters in Chicago condos (whatever I had a chance to inspect) use combustion air from within the apartment.

Although, there are high efficiency tank type water heaters using outside air sources for combustion (PVC exhaust and air supply), they are expensive and I’ve never seen one installed in Chicago condos.

2. Tankless type water heaters – to determine where is it taking combustion air from, use the appliance manual because some models use a concentric pipe that looks like a single but it is actually pipe within a pipe. So depending on the installed model – it may or may not require interior combustion air.

This section below explains one of the most common installations.
If you have any other combination of air supplying /combustion air vents – let me know your total appliance BTU’s, send me a picture of this section of your condo with detailed description.

How much combustion air your condo utility / furnace closet requires

Combustion air requirements are based on the BTU rating of your appliances (you can find BTU’s on manufacturer name plate attached to the appliance). However, there’s a minimum required combustion air supplying net free vent area and specific location which must be maintained.

• If your condo furnace and / or water heater installed in a closet / utility room require combustion air from interior of the apartment, the room they are located in must have a minimum of two openings / vents that will supply that air.

One interior combustion air vent must be located within 12” from the floor, second 12” from the ceiling of the appliance closet / utility room.

Each combustion air supplying vent must have at least 100 sq inches of a net free air flow area, and extra 1sq inch per 1000 BTU if 100 sq inches is not enough.

Because the combustion vents are usually covered with metal or wood grills with louvers the actual FREE air flow area is smaller than the louvered section of the vent.

• Metal louvered combustion air vent cover provides 60%-75% of its net free area (10″x10″ louvered opening would only provide 60-75 sq inches)
• Wood louvered combustion air vent cover provides  only 20%-25%

Example:
The furnace 100 000 BTU rating + water heater  40 000 BTU rating = 140 000 BTU Size of each of the two interior openings – 140000 BTU / 1000 = 140 sq inches of a net free air flow area

For clothes dryers makeup air check Chicago condo laundry inspection section. If installed together with a furnace or water heater, just add  BTU’s rating to the example above.

Full louver doors as the only source of combustion air

As far as the amount of air that can pass through the door (in most cases) it would be acceptable and approved by the city building inspector. The questionable situation would be with an 8’ (or higher ceiling) and a regular size door where the top section of the louver door is not within 12″ from the furnace / water heater closet ceiling.

Per code, that additional vent is still required, and if your condo utility room / closet doesn’t have it, contact city of Chicago building department for clarification because I was once told (by the Chicago building inspector) that it was OK.

Also, according to Chicago Peoples Gas Construction Guide for Gas Usage – “In confined space situations, where there may be vertical and/or horizontal space limitations, it is permissible for the two permanent openings to about one another.”

• Combustion air ports for the furnace – water heater closet (including louver doors) must not open into the sleeping area, no fuel burning appliances that require interior air for combustion can be installed in bedrooms or bathrooms.

One exception are vented and ventless fireplaces that require combustion air from interior, but this is a different story.

So, how is your Chicago new condo gas furnace and water heater combustion air?

For more inspection manuals go back to

Chicago Condo Inspection Manual

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Chicago new condo laundry room electrical

You can start your Chicago new condo laundry room inspection by looking at the electrical panel circuit breakers labels.

Laundry room requires a dedicated (no other rooms, outlets, lights on this breaker) 20 amps rated circuit breaker to protect receptacles within that area. Outlet receptacles installed on that circuit must be also 20 amps rated.

• If your condo laundry room is equipped with a 220 Volt electrical dryer outlet, the breaker / circuit protecting it must be at least 30 amps rated (check requirements in the appliance installation manual to determine if provided circuit is sufficient)

• If your new condo laundry room has  no appliances installed yet, examine location of the electrical outlet(s). They must be located within 6’ from the appliance location to avoid extension cords.

• If your laundry room has a sink, all receptacles installed within 6’ from its exterior edge must be GFCI protected.

Condo laundry room plumbing

• Check if sink, cabinet, faucet components have been properly secured. Open laundry sink faucet for several minutes, check around the valves, spout and connections underneath the sink for any signs of leakage.

Some installation (stackable washer & dryer in a narrow closet) might prevent evaluation of the plumbing, electrical and gas connections behind the appliances. Often, pulling it out of the closet will require removing of the doors.

• If accessible, make sure that washer hot and cold water supply lines are connected and not reversed, locate dryer gas line shutoff valve (should be immediately after the flexible connector), examine drain pipe connection and dryer vent pipe. You can use a telescopic mirror to check behind the appliances in a tight location.

Chicago condo dryer vent pipe

Plastic, flexible pipes are NOT permitted for use as a clothes dryer vent! Thin metal foil with a spring inside are claimed to resist fire but are extremely easy to bend, kink, and crush which would compromise dryer venting. I highly recommend to replace it.

Ideally, the entire dryer vent pipe should be smooth wall / not a flexible metal type one which gets contaminated much faster. Although, not recommended, flexible metal dryer vent pipes are permitted, but they can not be concealed inside the walls and ceilings / entire flexible connector must be exposed. Watch for kinked / damaged sections behind the dryer.

• To minimize lint accumulation on dryer vent pipe connections / joints must be in direction of air flow, and NO screws can be used on joints.

In situations where it is not possible to discharge clothes dryer to exterior, there might be a ventless condensing type dryer installed.

• Venting your regular type (not condensing) gas or electric dryer within the condo interior is against the UMC (Uniform Mechanical Code) requirements.

If your condo includes such installation, ask the developer to proof that it complies with a local building code.

If  you decide to keep such installation anyway, be aware that all the moisture from your wet clothes will be dumped into to your condo. In case of a fire inside the dryer or its vent pipe, it might spread out of the lint trap container.

One more thing about the condo dryer vent pipe – wherever it runs into the wall or ceiling, there must no gap around the pipe.  This is to prevent possibility of fire / smoke penetration in case of a fire in your or your neighbors condo. Any small gaps must be filled with a fire rated caulking, larger openings require drywall installation and taping.

Condo dryer closet ventilation / makeup air

• Your condo electric or gas dryer requires so called makeup air for proper operation.  Therefore closet installations must have some form of a fresh air supply, which can be provided by a 100 sq inch air vent (minimum size) or louver type door.

• For the dryer installed in the same room /closet as your condo furnace and / or water heater, dryer makeup air has to be calculated along with the combustion air required for other appliances (this is covered in condo combustion air requirements).

Drip pan under the washing machine

This feature is not required by the building code but some building associations and insurance companies might refuse to pay for the damage if missing (drip pan cost is somewhere between $10-$40, you’d just need some help with lifting the appliance). If by any chance there’s one already installed, check for cracks.

Before you take a brake after inspecting your Chicago new condo laundry room, run a cycle on your washer and dryer.

Whenever you’re ready for more checking, you can continue by going back to:

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Chicago new condo kitchen electrical inspection

• Start evaluating kitchen at the electrical panel section – check for kitchen labels, there are usually 3-5 (sometimes more) circuit breakers dedicated for kitchen circuits (depending on your kitchen features)

• Minimum of 2 x 20 amps circuit breakers are required for the kitchen countertop small appliance circuits, and they are usually marked as “kitchen counter GFCI”, “kitchen counter outlets”, counter receptacles”

• All kitchen countertop receptacles must be GFCI protected and 20 amps rated. There might be 2 GFCI receptacles (each on one of those two circuit breakers), and additional outlets connected to those GFCI receptacles (protected by them). Even if your kitchen has only 2 countertop outlets, each one must be on a dedicated circuit.

Test every single outlet with a GFCI circuit tester or use any cord & plug lamp – make sure that it is ON when plugged into the tested receptacle and it goes / stays OFF after you push and release TEST button. Don’t forget regular GFCI outlet maintenance and testing, your life might depend on it.

There should be no space along the wall above the kitchen countertop further than 24” from an outlet receptacle. This basically translates to – “an electrical outlet every 48” above the countertop”. Wall section directly behind the sink, kitchen range, and cook-top doesn’t require electrical outlets.

Each individual counterspace 12” or wider requires an electrical outlet receptacle.

• Kitchen island and the peninsula require at least one GFCI protected receptacle (no more than 12” below the counter with up to 6” overhang). The island receptacle is sometimes missing because of the difficulty in installation, especially if the island was not planned in an original layout.

So if you decide to let it go, try to look at this problem and all other issues as a person purchasing this condo from you in the future. Would the buyer care that you didn’t ask the developer for repairs …

Imagine ripping of the floor, cutting the concrete layer underneath to accommodate conduit, maybe removing some of the  kitchen cabinets to connect this single outlet … You’re looking at maybe several hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars spent on something that you’ve already paid for and it’s not there.

It could also become a safety issue – using any small appliances on the kitchen island without an electrical outlet would most likely require an extension cord hanging across the kitchen. Just add a couple of children running around …

It’s a brand new condo kitchen, make sure everything is correct or request repairs.

Kitchen exhaust fan inspection

Individual exhaust or microwave hood – they are not required but if it’s there why did they waste time installing it the wrong way…

• Make sure the exhaust fan / microwave assembly is secured to the wall / cabinet.

• Turn it ON and check if there’s any suction at the bottom inlet ports (you can place sheet of paper over the inlet). Some installers forget to adjust the unit for recirculation or exterior discharge (knockout plates might need to be removed and / or blower assembly flipped).

If there’s no suction, appliance would have to be removed and disassembled to correct this condition. It is also possible that wrong type of the hood has been installed, it might be designed for an exterior discharge only and if such was not provided, it will be blowing air from underneath.

• Open the cabinet above the hood and check if the exhaust fan discharge pipe is installed and secured. No plastic ducts are permitted and building code requires smooth wall pipe / not a flexible type (I had a conversation with a Chicago building inspector who said that flexible is OK). Grease and moisture will contaminate flexible air duct much faster and create a fire hazard.

Kitchen cabinet unprotected surface (no hood / microwave installed over the gas range / cook top) must be at least 30” above the gas burners, 24” if range hood installed (or lees if allowed by the vent/microwave manufacturer)

New condo kitchen dishwasher

• Make sure that the dishwasher is secured to the countertop or side cabinets and properly leveled. The door should easily close and its lock engage without forcing it. Run a cycle to ensure that there are no leaks on discharge and supply lines. Examine kitchen floor area in front of the appliance for leakage stains / damage.

Dishwasher air gap, high loop, anti-siphon -  To determine proper installation, you will have to check manufacturers installation guide for your particular appliance

Chicago condo kitchen garbage disposer

• Run water into the garbage disposer side sink, turn the switch ON to operate disposer.
• Check sink and drain pipe connection for leaks.
• Examine electrical connection at the bottom or side of the disposer and at the junction box (if present) – there should be no loose connection or / and exposed wiring.

New condo kitchen range inspection

• Gas appliances require shutoff valve immediately after the flexible gas connector – try to shine your flashlight behind the appliance without moving it, or move it as little as possible. If the kitchen range gas shutoff valve is located at the wall lower section, it might visible by removing of the bottom drawer.

• Kitchen range must have a safety anti-tip bracket installed (chain will do too) to prevent it from tipping over and injuring whoever accidentally pushed down onto the open oven door (manufacturer requirement, always included in installation kit, rarely installed).

Condo kitchen sink and faucet

For sinks mounted under the stone countertop pour some water along the seam to make sure that is not leaking inside the cabinet

Test faucet assembly to make sure that it is secured and free of leaks, make sure that cold and hot is where it supposed to be. Run water in each sink bowl for several minutes and check for leaks underneath the sink.

Faucet aerator screens (end of the spout) sometimes requires cleaning / this is often the solution to poor water pressure or uneven discharge

Condo kitchen countertop, backsplash and counter seams inspection

• Check if countertop / its backsplash are secured and sealed with silicon at seam and along the wall to prevent water penetration. Look for dents, chipped edges, uneven seams, cracked surface.

• Stone and tiled countertops require sealer application on regular bases (depending on material and sealer). However, your condo developer has no obligation to apply it (unless it’s in your contract) , so protect your investment on your own – application of a good sealer will preserve the surface original look, prevent staining of natural stone and grouted areas (if tiled).

In case you have a marble countertop or backsplash, be extremely careful with anything that might cause discoloration – marble is like a stain sponge – seal it often and with good products.

Kitchen cabinets inspection

• Test cabinets doors and drawers for alignment and proper operation – they are usually very easy to adjust with a screwdriver (as long as the hardware is not damaged). Your cabinets must be secured to the wall framing and in most cases you’ll be able to see screw heads along the interior or exterior top and base of the cabinet.

However, some kitchen cabinet manufacturers use special system of railings which is attached to the wall framing and the cabinet simply hangs on it. In such case there might be no visible screw heads.

• Also, look for scratches, cracks, warped doors, exposed nails, loose / missing kick-plate, and anything else that doesn’t look natural.

Condo kitchen lights inspection

Operate light switches to make sure that all fixtures are functional. In some floor plans you might have two kitchen entrances and light switches located at each one. You should be able to turn the lights ON/OFF (at least the main light fixture) independently from each side.

Test both switches in ON and OFF position – if improperly wired or wrong type of a switch used, you will not have a full control at both ends.

Kitchen under the cabinet lights

• There are two types of light fixtures used for this purpose – low voltage (usually 12V) and a regular / high voltage. Low voltage wiring between the fixture and a transformer doesn’t have to be inside the conduit and it should never be mixed with high voltage wires.

The transformer could be inside the kitchen cabinet, on top of it, or underneath / behind the kick-plate, usually plugged into an electrical outlet / sometimes switched. Low voltage wires can pass through the cabinet walls and behind them to the fixtures itself.

• There are also (sometimes looking exactly like low voltage lights) under the cabinet lights that require high voltage power supply to the fixture itself (transformer might be built into the light fixture), and in such case that wiring between the electrical box / switch must be inside the conduit with a proper type connectors installed.
• If the light fixture came with a cord & plug (not designed for hard wiring), this must not be altered, lamp cord removed or hidden behind / inside the walls.

Light fixture should have a label stating what kind of a voltage is using – its usually visible on the fixture enclosure surface or after you remove the light bulb cover (turn the light OFF and don’t touch the light bulb if halogen).

I hope you didn’t find any problems during your condo kitchen inspection:-), get some rest and continue your

Chicago new condo inspection

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Chicago new condo bathroom inspection

All bathroom outlets must be 20 amps rated and must include GFCI protection (there might be one GFCI receptacle and other outlets connected to it and protected). Your new condo bathroom receptacles must be installed on #12 AWG wire which you can’t see without removing of the receptacle or at least its cover, but this is beyond our basic / visual inspection.

The best way to test bathroom GFCI is to purchase a GFCI receptacle tester (you can get one for under $10.00 in any local Home Depot®/Menards® or Lowes®, smaller hardware stores might be more expensive – just make sure that it has a GFCI test option) and test all of the apartment receptacles for proper wiring and functionality. The minimum you can do is to use a cord & plug lamp for testing – make sure that the light goes OFF and stays OFF after you push and release GFCI’s “trip” button – learn extremely important GFCI maintenance.

Make sure that there’s an electrical outlet receptacle within 36” of each sink exterior edge. Bathroom electrical outlet may be installed on the mirror, wall surface, or sink cabinet face /side wall within 12” from the countertop.

Chicago condo bathroom whirlpool tub inspection / electric and safety

If your new condo has a whirlpool tub, its motor must be accessible and plugged into a GFCI receptacle or GFCI breaker protected outlet. Pull the motor plug from the receptacle, and plug in your testing device / push the test button, or push GFCI breaker test button (in electrical panel) to make sure it trips and disconnects the power to the motor. Make sure that electrical box is secured, receptacle attached to it, and has a cover plate installed.

Motor access must be large enough for servicing if required, and for en emergency disconnect – so you can reach and pull the plug from an electrical outlet socket. Check if the motor is within reach and removing it would be possible without destroying surrounding walls.

Most of the hydro-spa motors (unless listed on label as double insulated) have a grounding screw / terminal. There must be a #8 solid AWG copper wire bonding (connecting) this terminal with a water pipe (special clamp must be installed on water pipe) – very important and rarely installed. In some cases the terminal is on the opposite side of the access panel, you’d need a good source of light and a telescopic mirror (just a few $$$ in most hardware and car supply stores) to see it.

• Open the tub / whirlpool faucets – make sure that cold / hot water markings correspond to whatever is discharging from the spout.

• Check under the spout and around the valves for leaks

• Make sure that when turning the valve(s), there’s only one OFF position and that the valve turns only one way from that position. If improperly installed, you’ll be able to move the handle both ways from the point the water stops running, or the handle(s) might turn 360° (applies to all faucets in your condo).

• Close the drain (if it’s working), fill the whirlpool tub with water to about 2″ above the highest jet, point all the jets towards the tub bottom (if adjustable) and turn ON the switch. Operate whirlpool for a couple of minutes, test controls to makes sure that all of the jests are functional, look underneath for any signs of leakage (if accessible of course).

Chicago condo bathroom stall shower inspection

• Operate shower stall enclosure components to make sure that everything is aligned properly, no gaps along the door edges / door closing and opening smoothly.

If you have a manufactured type shower base (fiberglass, plastic, concrete, Corian, etc), check its surface for cracks, scratches, dents, stains. Cracks usually appear in corners or around the drain hole, might be caused by improper handling, installation or even manufacturing process. Other 99.9% issues are caused by the base installer or whoever performs other jobs around the base.

Open the valves, check for proper operation (same as whirlpool section), if possible, direct shower-head onto the enclosure seams (run it 10-15 minutes) to make sure that none of them are leaking

• If your condo shower stall has a tiled seat, make sure that it has a positive slope to provide proper drainage, ensure that all shower stall seams / corners have been sealed with silicon. Even if they are not cracked yet, 99.9% of them will eventually separate and start leaking onto the ceiling below.

Chicago condo bathroom lights inspection

Recessed light fixtures within 3’ from the tub or shower stall edge and 8’ vertically from the edge must be rated for wet / damp locations (usually require enclosed trim preventing moisture penetration)

Lights – if you have a light strip above the mirror with an open top, check if electrical wiring is properly contained within an electrical junction box or fixture itself – you should not be able to see exposed wires and connections

Chicago condo bathroom exhaust fan inspection

• Any bathroom without an openable window requires an exhaust fan. Depending on the condo building type, this might be an individual exhaust fan installed on the wall or ceiling, or central exhaust system with just a register in your bathroom (some have switch controlled dampers). You can place a tissue or toilet paper over it to make sure that it has suction.

Any bathroom exhaust fan installed directly above the shower stall or bathtub must be listed for such locations and GFCI protected (manufacturer requirement) – turn the fan on and push GFCI receptacle test button, this must stop the fan.

Chicago condo bathroom inspection other issues

Check all tiled walls for missing or cracked grout – look at grout lines from different angles to make sure that they are all completely filled with grout and free of cracks. There might be an inadequate mortar base, sometimes loose underlayment that permits movement and results in grout cracking.

Tiled wall and floor corners, tile seams with tub and shower stall base, shower enclosure to wall seams, sink countertop to wall seam – they should be all sealed with silicon to prevent moisture / water penetration.  99.9% of them will eventually crack / open, and without flexible sealer on top of the seam, they will start leaking. Your neighbor from the floor below is usually the first one to let you know about it.

Window sill (if window located within the shower stall / tub area) should be sloped towards the interior / not the window frame. Assuming that it is tiled, all seams with the window frame must be sealed with silicon.

Sealer application on tiled / grouted surfaces – I don’t think that there’s such requirement / regulation (except for the grout and some tiles manufacturers recommendations), so you can’t really request it from the developer. However, I highly recommend it – it saves maintenance time, slows grout deterioration, prevents grout, unglazed tiles and stone surfaces from absorbing water. Application is very easy and clearly explained on any sealer bottle – just make sure that the surface you’re applying it over is clean and fully dry.

Condo bathroom window safety glass

Bathroom windows located within 60” from the shower stall or tub standing surface MUST be tempered type glass – check the corners of a window pane for etching confirming that it is tempered. This is a very common problem, and for a very simple reason – tempered window glass is more expensive – if it’s not there, it must be replaced.

• Tub or shower enclosures must be also tempered glass and I’ve never seen a new one without the label. Custom / frameless enclosures might not have a “Tempered Glass” etching or label so the only thing you could do is ask developer for a certificate or manufacturer contact information.

Whirlpool / tub surface issues

Check your new condo bathroom tub for dents, scratches, marks, discoloration (all types of tubs), and cracks especially along the edges supported with tiled surface (fiberglass and plastic). While first 4 are usually related to a sloppy drywall / tile installers, painters and sometimes a plumber, cracks along the edge are usually a sign of an improper base / inadequate support under the tub, and poorly designed framing.

The tub should be fully supported from underneath, not rest on the thin edge which becomes critical while filled with water. You should be able to see hydro-spa tub support after removing the motor access panel.

Condo bathroom sink and faucet issues

• Make sure that your sink, cabinet / sink base, countertop, faucet components and all the hardware are securely attached (supported). Check if pup-up drain is functional, open hot and cold water separately to make sure that supply lines have not be switched around. Look at the water flow and pressure – the screens inside the faucet spout discharge end (aerator) might be contaminated and require cleaning.

• Keep your bathroom sink faucet open for several minutes and check the plumbing underneath, look for leakage stains under the pipes and valves, run your hand over the connections (drain and supply) to make sure that there’s no leaks.

Ready for more condo inspection, it’s just a click away

Chicago Condo Inspection Manual

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This section of my Chicago Condo Inspection Manual will help you to ensure that your property developer / electrical contractor followed local electrical code requirements while wiring your brand new condo or a gut-rehabbed property.

You’ll find here general Chicago new condo electrical requirements and more details concerning your kitchen, bathroom and the laundry area will be explained separately. Because this condo inspection manual is designed for anyone to be able to follow, you don’t have to worry about being electrocuted while following my steps – you won’t need to remove covers from electrical panels, outlets or switches. 

If you spot some problems on the “surface”, there is usually more cut corners underneath and licensed electrician evaluation would be needed.

Chicago condo main electrical panel requirements

Your condo main electrical panel might be located in various areas. The most common are main hallway wall, utility room, bedroom wall.

• Your Chicago condo electrical panel must have 30″ (36″ NEC) of open space in front of it and it should be installed on at least 30″ wide section of the wall (no shelves, cabinets, appliances, etc. on that 30″).  For example, if you have to reach over the washer / dryer to the electrical panel – this is not an electrical code approved installation.

• No electrical panel installations inside the clothes closet

• When you open your new condo main electrical panel access door, there should be a 100 amp rated main disconnect (doesn’t apply to partial condo conversions). If your electrical panel has less than 6 circuit breakers (NEC), the only main disconnect might be installed somewhere in the basement or common area / next to the electrical meters – find out.

Chicago building code permits more than six circuit breakers in the main electrical panel, and the main disconnect located in different location.

You’re not going to be able to check if power supply cables are also rated for 100 amps without unscrewing of the panel cover – this should be done by a professional. The reason I’m mentioning it is that sometimes they are not, which is a fire hazard.

Check for labeling inside the condo electrical panel – each circuit breaker should have a short description of the area it controls.

• There must be at least two 20 amps rated circuit breakers marked for kitchen counter outlets, and additional for dishwasher, garbage disposal, refrigerator – not required but it makes sense. An average of 4-5 circuit breakers dedicated for kitchen electrical circuits is very common.

• Separate 20 amps rated circuit breaker for each bathroom / depending on installed hydro spa motor size, hydro spa heater, bathroom floor heating, steam unit, etc, additional circuit breakers might be required and labeled. Example – if your bathroom has a hydro-spa heater, it needs an extra circuit breaker.

• Minimum one 20 amps rated circuit breaker is required for the laundry area for a receptacle(s) providing power to washer/dryer.

• Bedroom labeled circuit breaker(s) must be AFCI type (since January 1, 2002) – check AFCI requirements changes in 2008 electrical code. This AFCI breaker has a test button, and it should trip / turn OFF the power to your bedroom when depressed. Test all the bedroom outlets after tripping the breaker (use a table lamp or an outlet tester – you can purchase one for under $10.00 in any local Home Depot®/Menards® or Lowes®, smaller hardware stores might be more expensive, buy one with GFCI test option).

Also test bedroom & bedroom closet lights – you should not be able to turn anything ON after tripping AFCI breaker . Test lights and electrical outlets in surrounding areas too – bedroom marked AFCI breaker should only protect the bedroom (check 2008 NEC AFCI changes)

Chicago condo outlets general rules (not for kitchens, bathrooms and laundry area):

• Hallway 10’ and longer requires an outlet

All rooms should have electrical outlets installed in such way that there’s no place along the wall further than 6’ from a receptacle. If there’s a 2’ or wider wall space (e.g. between the closet and bathroom doors) – it also requires a receptacle.

• If you have a fixed glass section that continues to the floor, there should be a floor receptacle installed within 18″ from the wall /glass (fixed glass section counts as a wall)

• All exterior (balcony, porch, etc) electrical outlets must be GFCI protected

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Requirements for the smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors / alarms installation in the city of Chicago are slightly different than those from NEC (National Electrical Code). So if you’re moving from the Chicago suburbs or other states into the Windy City you’re actually going to need LESS smoke, fire and Carbon Monoxide protection.

So let’s continue your Chicago condo inspection and check for smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors.

Pushing test button on smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors may only confirm that unit is mechanically functional and it has power. This test does not guarantee proper response to smoke, flame and / or CO presence.

Smoke detectors requirement in Chicago

The minimum smoke detector requirement in Chicago is to have that life saving device installed within 15′ from the sleeping area (NEC requirement is one detector inside every bedroom).

If you have a very long hallway, bedrooms located on the opposite sides of a large condo, additional smoke detector would be  most likely required. If your condo unit has more than one level, at least one smoke detector is required on each floor, even if there’s no sleeping area.

Your new or gut-rehabbed condo must have a hard wired (with battery backup) smoke detector. For the remodeled properties where wall finishes were not removed only battery operated smoke detectors are  required.

Look at the location of the smoke detector on your condo wall or ceiling. There’s a triangle shaped dead air space where the ceiling meets the wall, and your smoke detector must not be installed within that area (4″ from the wall – ceiling corner projected onto the ceiling and wall).

• Smoke detector wall installation must be within 4″ – 12″ from the ceiling

Smoke detector ceiling installation must be not closer than 4″ from the wall

• If you have a central heating / air conditioning system – smoke detectors must be at least 36” away from the air supply and not between the air return and a bedroom. If your condo unit has a single air return installed in the hallway, located 15′ or more from the bedroom door, complying with that second requirement will not be possible …
• Do a little better than you have to in Chicago and install smoke detector in each bedroom
• Check the top of the enclosed staircase (if non combustible – metal or concrete) for a smoke and CO detector (or combo). For combustible stairs or separated floors one should be installed on each floor.
• Smoke detectors recalls and some more important facts
• Smoke alarm maintenance – that’s a routine you need to implement into your life…

Chicago Building Department – smoke detectors requirements

Carbon Monoxide detectors requirement in Chicago

If the Chicago condo unit you’re purchasing includes any fuel burning appliances (kitchen range, gas dryer, gas furnace, gas water heater, fireplace, etc. ), there must be a Carbon Monoxide detector installed within fifteen (15′) feet of all rooms used for sleeping (in most cases it will be installed next to the smoke detector / there might be a combination type detector installed).

Check the brand of your Carbon Monoxide detector and if your condo developer left no manufacturer instructions, find information about your particular model online.

Find out more about CO alarm locations, and Carbon Monoxide alarm maintenance

Carbon Monoxide detectors have a shorter lifespan than smoke detectors, and many models will only function properly for about 2 years. Some manufacturers claim up to 6 years on new CO detector models, and they might have a audible notification feature letting you know that replacement is required.

• Carbon Monoxide detectors recall and more information

Chicago Fire Department – Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Go ahead and check other sections of the

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Following section of the Chicago condo inspection concerning issues with hardwood / floating / tiled / carpeted / vinyl floors, windows, doors and wall surfaces may be considered as cosmetic (at least parts of it).

Although, some of the described conditions may be a result of an already corrected problem, other are evidence of an existing one. In both situations, if you’re purchasing a brand new condo or gut rehabbed unit, and you’re going to be the first person living in it, the condition of your condo components should be perfect (unless you agree otherwise, a good example would be purchasing of a model unit).

Condo Floors

Condo hardwood floors scratches Hardwood floor scratches are only a cosmetic issue and depending on the depth / damage extent, floor might require buffing or sometimes sanding and re-coating with a varnish or other finish layer.

Crowning and cupping of the hardwood floor Look at the hardwood floor surface from a as far as you can at daylight having observed area between you and the windows / glass doors providing lots of light. If space is limited, lower your eye level to 2′-3′ above the hardwood floor surface and look for distortion. If daylight is limited, use a bright  flashlight or some other source of light and shine it on the floor surface.

The hardwood floor surface should be smooth, without major distortions. If you notice that individual boards center sections are higher than the edges, the condition is called Crowning.

• Crowning is caused by moisture imbalance, usually when top surface of the hardwood floor boards is exposed to excessive amount of moisture – plumbing problems, overhead sprinkler system, high humidity levels before the floor surface was sealed. Another cause might be sanding of the previously deformed (cupped) floor before it was completely dry.

If the center of the observed hardwood floor board is lower than the edges, the condition is called Cupping

.

• Cupping usually happens when the bottom of the wood flooring receives excessive amount of moisture making it wetter than the top surface. Pay close attention to the hardwood floor surface in the kitchen, bathroom or / and in the areas surrounding water using appliances, along the exterior doors and windows.

If your condo hardwood floor covered area is located below or at the ground level (duplexes, garden units, etc.) check entire surface. If the drainage system around the property has not been properly installed (or sometimes might not be there at all), even small amount of moisture transferred though the foundation wall or concrete slab underneath the condo hardwood floor may affect areas along the exterior walls, or even the entire hardwood floor.

The solution to this problem is not cheap and easy, depending on the severity might involve installation of the drainage system, replacement of the floor boards and new underlayment. Definitely a condo hardwood floor condition to complain about, especially with a possibility of mold growth underneath the surface. Separating hardwood floor boards – this might be simply caused by moisture imbalance during the cold season (the most comfortable humidity level is 35%-50%). Most of the gaps will disappear during the summer, with elevated humidity. Other reasons are poor quality of the material used for the installation or / and workmanship.

Condo carpeting

Stains, tears, loose sections, uneven seams, buckling, unfinished along the thresholds. All that is self explanatory, and if it should be considered brand new – how come it doesn’t look like a brand new installation – go ahead and complain!

Condo vinyl floors

Watch for discoloration, stains, uneven installation, gaps between tiles or sheets of vinyl, glue on surface, loose tiles, buckling areas, etc.

Condo tiled floor (ceramic, stone, etc.)

Walk on tiles and listen for unusual noises / feel for loose spots

Watch for cracked grout joints – they are a result of an improper installation (inadequate mortar base, improper type of mortar / underlayment combination, improperly prepared grout mix, unstable floor framing)

Tap tiled surface in cracked grout lines area – hollow sounding tiles might crack under pressure / when you step on them (or they might be already cracked) and the only solution is to replace them

Condo floating floor

There are several different types of floating floors currently available on the market, and since you can only see the finished surface, concentrate on quality of the installation. Watch for gaps between the planks, examine areas along the baseboards and around floor penetrations, look for dented and chipped surface. The floor is floating / not secured to the underlayment so if you’ve never walked on such surface, it might feel … different.

Floating laminated floors with self locking type tong and groove don’t require glue along the edges to hold them together (if you notice gaps between the planks – there is a problem with installation). However, in areas with a possibility of moisture / water intrusion, floating floor planks must be installed with edges glued together.

Otherwise, the edges will start swelling from moisture they are exposed to – this is not a reversible process and damaged planks will require replacement.

Check the surface of your new floating laminated floor in front of the sink, dishwasher, refrigerator, bathroom, laundry, etc.

Condo walls & ceiling inspection

Look for discoloration or damage on the ceilings and walls, especially in bathrooms/ kitchens, laundry, furnace / utility rooms. It might be a plumbing problem in the condo directly above your unit or maybe a leaking roof if you have a top floor. There is always a chance of mold growing on the back side of the stained surface, especially if it is an active leak.

• For garden units and walls below the ground level check for any moisture stains, discoloration and / or unusual residue along the lower sections of the exterior wall and on the baseboards surface.
• Small stress cracks and fractures are very common issue and usually caused by contraction / expansion of the framing, building settlement … and of course poor workmanship. Most of the developers offer a 1 year warranty on such things, and (if asked) at the end of that period come back to perform repairs. Don’t be surprised if cracks will re-appear during the cold season, some areas, especially above wall penetrations (like windows, doors) are more sensitive and single repair won’t be enough. If it’s only a hairline crack, there’s usually nothing to worry about, but again – it’s a brand new condo.
• Uneven wall and ceiling surface – yes, it should be straight, flat, without distortions. Depending on how bad it its and how much it bothers you can try to negotiate …

Condo windows inspection

Condo Windows

• Check each condo window by opening and closing it (they should operate smoothly), try engaging window locks, ensure that screens are present and intact. Watch for cracked glass in regular and glass block type windows.

Look at the window frames corners for stress cracks (vinyl windows). They tend to develop on window frames that are too large / too tight in the window wall opening, or sometimes have been installed damaged.

Check along the frames / on window interior sills for leakage stains, and / or damage. In some cases the exterior caulking / finish trim or building elevation components are the source of water and moisture penetration.

• Look inside the bottom part of the frame (slider type or double hung type windows) for standing water – exterior drains could be clogged with caulking.

Condo interior doors inspection

• Close each door and check the gap between the door frame (door jamb) and the door itself.  It should be uniform along the top and both sides (check inside and outside of the room). For as long as it is opening and closing without touching the door jamb, it’s cosmetic.However, if it is almost touching the frame while tested, with some extra humidity you might not be able to close it any more and servicing will be required- adjustment or shaving.
• After closing the door, try to push it inwards without moving the handle to make sure that the door lock and a striker plate have been properly aligned and holding.
• Check if the door locks have been installed on the proper side
• Check for door stops at the base of the door or on hinges. Make sure that they are adjusted properly so the door handle doesn’t hit the wall. Also, if there’s no door stops installed, be careful with a push button type door locks – it will engage itself when pushed against the wall.

With central forced air heating system and single air return installed in your condo (no individual air return ports in the rooms) the doors leading to various sections of your condo should have a 3/4″ clearance above the finished floor surface to provide positive air circulation. This will help to evenly distribute air and equalize temperature through the apartment.

This pretty much concludes condo floor, walls, windows and interior doors inspection.

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Let’s start your Chicago condo inspection from the unit entrance  doors.

The entrance to your condominium from an enclosed staircase, hallway or a garage must comply with the City of Chicago building / fire code requirements.

• The condo entrance door must be a fire-rated type – no hollow core interior type doors like the ones that you normally install in bedrooms, closets, bathrooms (you can tap on door surface to make sure that it is solid).

There should be a label on the door edge stating fire rating -  a “B” labeled door and frame is a typical assembly for stairway enclosures and has been designed to resist fire for a period of at least one hour. Solid wood doors may also meet 1 hour fire resistance requirements, but finding a label …

The condo doors leading to an enclosed staircase must be self and fully closing / equipped with an approved closing mechanism.

The most commonly used closing mechanisms on Chicago condo doors are spring hinges and self closing device mounted along the door top edge – again they are required and must be functional. During the construction process self-closing is often disengaged and forgotten after the completion.

Fire rated condo doors are heavier than regular doors and require at least 2 spring hinges installed – if they don’t work, they might be broken or missing pins / this must be repaired for your safety.

Weather stripping around the condo entrance doors – look for damaged strip (it often happens during the construction process) and proper threshold adjustment. If you see gaps between the threshold – door bottom and between the door frame and door edge, the door rattles, threshold is loose – this needs to be adjusted in order to resist passage of smoke from the hallway / staircase / garage.

• You can easily check if the weather strip seal is tight by looking at the closed door while standing in a dark and having someone else to shine a flashlight along the door frame from opposite side (staircase /hallway/ garage/exterior).

After closing the condo entrance door, make sure that all locks easily engage. Push the door inwards to make sure that striker plate is properly aligned and holds the lock pin.

• Condo entrance door frame / door jamb must be sealed along the wall penetration to resist smoke passage.
• Try closing and opening the condo entrance doors to make sure that they are moving freely. The gap between the closed door and its frame / door jamb should be as uniform as possible.

Check condo exterior entrance doors (balcony, deck, patio), threshold should be secured and sealed along the seam with an exterior surface. There should be no gaps between the door bottom, weather strip – the threshold and along the exterior frame seams / trim.

Chicago Municipal Code – selections from the Code that govern condo, apartment, and house rentals in the City of Chicago.

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Purchasing a new condo in Chicago without a professional inspection carries significant risks, and naturally many buyers are taking their chances. Some are on a tight budget / trying to save a few extra dollars on a condo transaction, others are not even aware or pay attention to a home / condo inspection disclosure.

There’s also a group of condo buyers assuming that what’s new should be created with safety and locally accepted building code in mind – they simply trust developers and city building inspectors.

Unfortunately, this last assumption has many holes and not much to do with reality, at least in the city of Chicago. Recent years of wild real estate market created a situation where many safety issues and even life threatening hazards flow below the radar of the Chicago building inspectors … or maybe the radar has been temporarily turned off.

So for any buyer who decides to purchase without using a professional home inspector, for homeowners who didn’t have a condo inspection and experience some problems, or for those who just prefer to double check and be on the safe side – follow this “Chicago Condo Inspection Manual”.

• This condo inspection manual is not intended to be a replacement for your brand new, gut-rehabbed or conversion condo evaluation performed by an Illinois licensed home inspector. Also this Chicago condo inspection manual is not a legal advice – I’m not a lawyer.Always check code issues directly with your local code enforcement division to make sure that the developer followed requirements from the date your condo blueprints were approved.

• It only covers things that can be easily checked, without any special tools (I’m not considering a flashlight, measuring tape or the mirror a special tool), experience, and/or construction trade knowledge.
  

• I didn’t make many “cosmetic” comments except for the things that appear cosmetic today, but may become an issue in the near future.
  

However, many of those things are serious safety hazards and very common issues in a majority of the new and gut-rehabbed properties that I inspect in Chicago.

I’m also pretty sure that most of those guidelines will apply to any construction project, not only in Chicago area.

Start investigating and remember that all of those rules apply to the brand new / completely gut-rehabbed condos, and in many cases they might roll back to 2002 or even more.

Because building codes change and parts of this condo inspection manual might not apply to a property purchased long time ago – let me know the details of your problem and I’ll try to help you. If unable to resolve something questionable with your developer, contact the City of Chicago Department of Buildings for more information.

Also, if there is a safety issue in your condo, don’t hesitate with correcting the problem as soon as possible. Waiting for the developer to correct some critical conditions might take months and compromising your safety for such a long time is not the best way to go.

However, before you correct the problem, take a few pictures of it, and then get a written estimate / problem description / performed work report from the professional.

Chicago Condo Inspection Manual  Categories

• Condominium entrance from the enclosed staircase, hallway or garage
  
• Condo floor, walls, windows and interior doors inspection
  
• Chicago Smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors requirements
  
• New condo electrical components minimum requirements (electrical panel, required circuits, outlets, etc.)
  
• Chicago Condo bathroom inspection
  
• Condo kitchen inspection
  
• Condo laundry area inspection
  
• Chicago condo gas furnace and water heater combustion air requirements
  
• Chicago new condo gas furnace installation most common problems (if installed within your apartment)
• Condo gas or electric water heater installation most common problems (installed within your apartment)
• Chicago condo firewall separation

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If you are looking for a new gut rehabbed condo in Chicago, or even a 100% brand new property – make sure that you inspect it before the purchase.

Ask your real estate agent, call friends and find a home inspector with recommendations. Make sure that your home inspector will be able to check your new gut rehabbed condominium for violations of the Chicago building code.

I’ve inspected hundreds of such properties in Chicago, by different developers, and with various quality of workmanship. The buyer has often no idea about even the most basic quality standards that developers should follow (I think they should). He or she simply assumes that many of the poorly finished components of the property are something normal, that this is how it should be.

In many of my Chicago new condo home inspections quality is far from being even considered as “poor” workmanship – everything used to sell … but this isn’t the most important issue.

• The biggest problem is with Chicago building code violations that in some cases create serious safety conditions for the owners of those new construction & new gut rehabbed condos or any real estate properties.

There are developers cooperating and correcting problems while others simply drag the issue for as long as possible. The trick (for the developer of course) is to extend this “correction” process beyond the new home warranty period (usually 1 year), at which point it might become your building association liability or your own.

There’s of course another (sometimes the only) way to remediate this problem, rather an expensive and often painful solution – a lawsuit.

So before closing on your brand new gut rehabbed condo in Chicago, make sure that you inspect it. If you are already after the closing, and problems start piling up, or you just want to make sure that everything is safe, please read the list of the most common problems in Chicago new and got rehabbed condominiums.

All of the items below are immediate hazards and a very common issues.

- Heating system:

• Improperly installed furnace vent pipe
• Missing bottom closure panel in furnace air return compartment
• Missing or inadequate number of combustion air ports (combustion air is required for a proper, carbon monoxide free fuel burning process)

- Water heater:

• Improperly installed water heater vent pipe / combustion issues

- Gaps in fire wall separation between the furnace / water heater room and other apartments

- Missing bathroom window safety glass

- Electrical issues:

• Improper electrical panel grounding / bonding
• missing hydro spa motor grounding
• missing hydro spa GFCI protection
• Circuit breakers serving undersized wires
• Improper type of circuit breakers used / missing AFCI type breakers
• Inadequate number of outlets installed through the property
• Improper rating of bathroom, kitchen, and laundry outlets
• missing or partial GFCI protection for kitchen, bathroom and laundry area

- Improperly assembled building porches

Some of the building code requirements (not covered on the list above) are not necessarily placing you in the immediate danger. However, if you’re spending hundreds of thousands of dollars, you should expect your brand new or new gut rehabbed condo in Chicago to be in a perfect, up to your current local code and safe condition.

Where are Chicago building inspectors?

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